There has been talk over the past year of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy being one of the greatest of all time. We’ve tasted some marvelous wines, both white and red, and from all of the appellation levels. Purity and concentration would be the key words across the board.
Thie mixed assortment of 2018 wines include 1 bottle of each PLUS Ground Shipping Included:
Domaine Mouton Givry 1er Cru 'Clos Jus' 2018
Domaine Mouton's aptly-named 'Clos Jus' ('jus' means 'juice') is the Mouton wine we go to first. Always ripe and juicy, ready to drink relatively early. Minerality is the key here, from a vineyard with different soil make-up to the rest of the appellation. Dark fruit, earth notes, delicate structure fleshed out to fullness. We appreciate the finesse in the winemaking, an unstinting perfectionism that has been communicated across a generation. The self-effacing Moutons would be the last to admit it, but for us their wines are nearly always perfect.
Domaine Jean Fery Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru 'Les Vergelesses' Rouge 2018
Yes, we admit, it can be complicated! There is this red Savigny-les Beaune 1er Cru 'Les Vergelesses', but the domain also makes both a red Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘Les Vergelesses’ and a white Savigny-les Beaune 1er Cru both called 'Les Vergelesses' as well. To make things even more complicated, the Pernand 'Vergelesses' and the two Savigny 'Vergelesses' touch another Pernand premier cru called 'Ile des Vergelesses'! Sorry! We do our best to keep it all simple and clear. In addition to being the most complicated corner of the Savigny valley, it is also the most interesting. This Savigny is deeply colored due to the clay and iron content in the soil. It is elegant and powerful, with dominant black cherry fruit, but also blackcurrant, raspberry and the trademark Burgundy wild undergrowth. Delicate with discreet tannins.
Domaine Jean Marechal Mercurey 1er Cru Clos l'Eveque 2018
Delicate pinot color, rich fresh strawberry fruit with hints of undergrowth. Fine tannins show a silky texture, and the balanced acidity brings the red fruit notes high on the palate. Elegant finish.
Domaine Borgeot Santenay 1er Cru 'Les Gravieres' 2018
Not surprisingly, this Borgeot Santenay 1er Cru 'Gravieres' red comes from the same vineyard as their Santenay 1er 'Gravieres' white, just further down the slope where the soil becomes denser and red. ‘Gravieres’ is one vineyard with two different soil types, apt for two different wines. Sadly, many producers have succumbed to the temptation of the bottom line, and have replanted Chardonnay where there should be Pinot Noir. But not the Borgeots! Their 'Gravieres' red is their signature Pinot, with ripe dark fruits tinged with chocolate and coffee, rich, powerful and fat right through the lingering note of pure blackberry.
Capitain-Gagnerot Ladoix 1er Cru 'La Micaude' 2018
The Capitain Ladoix 1er Cru 'La Micaude' is a 'monople', meaning they own the entire 4 acres of vines themselves. This is and has been for nearly 30 years, our benchmark Pinot Noir. Roger Capitain used this wine to show us that if you are looking for color in Pinot Noir, you are asking the wrong question. He showed us here that a wine can be delicate and powerful at the same time, And he showed us that pretty little red fruits can age as well (and usually better) than concentrated extracted fruit bombs. Racy and well-structured, 'La Micaude' is at the same time discreet with delicate black berry fruits. It's one of those wine that will surprise you as it ages, growing in elegance and nuance with each passing year.
Domaine Borgeot Chassagne 1er Cru 'Clos St. Jean' 2018
The Clos St Jean lies toward the northern end of Chassagne-Montrachet, close to St Aubin, and borders a limestone quarry. For years we have insisted that it makes is one of the great red wines of the cote de Beaune, despite the modern trends to re-plant it with Chardonnay. And therein lies a tale. Years ago when the Borgeots wanted to take their production up a notch, they took on a partner and set up a small negociant house. One of the conditions of the deal was that they had to rip up their prized Clos St Jean red and replant it in white...which of course commands a higher price. The brothers were gutted because they knew what a great red parcel the Clos St Jean is. But they did it...and regretted it for years. But once they were really up and running, they got hold of another piece of Clos St Jean planted in Pinot Noir. These guys are true to their heritage and close to the earth. And it shows in everything they do!
Jean-Jacques Girard Savigny les Beaune White 2018
Jean-Jacques Girard knows Savigny les Beaune. And while 85% of Savigny is red, there is a lovely strain of minerality that comes out of this valley. and with the village appellation Savigny les Beaune blanc, Jean Jaques shows us what is possible. The nose is like an apple orchard, fresh fruit and apple pie spices in the air. Rich, supple, pure, and then a bite of that pie! This one is ripe, fresh and shows a good deal of complexity.
Chateau de Vergisson Pouilly-Fuisse 'Sur la Roche' 2018
These are vines from Pierre’s end of the valley, on the slopes of the Vergisson outcrop. The vines, almost 100 years old, were planted by Pierre’s great-grandfather. And old vines on a parcel like ‘Sur la Roche’ gives a depth and concentration that is hard to believe. Elegance, tension, freshness, notes of oysters and the sea, iodine. And of course the minerality carries the finish on forever. Outstanding.
Domaine Oudin Chablis 1er Cru 'Vaugiraut 2018
An upper left bank premier cru that sits above the village of Chichée and to the south of Chablis itself, this Oudin Vaugiraut is a moment of pleasure with ripe fruit and gun-flint smoke. Its floral and stony with a hint of salty sea breeze, pure and powerful and elegant.
Elise Villiers Vezelay ‘Le Clos’ 2018
Lively and mineral, like a classy Chablis. There’s lemon peel and kaffir lime leaf, with chalk underneath and exotic spiciness high on the palate. Rich and tense with a solid core running from attack to a long complex finish.
Domaine Borgeot Santenay 1er Cru 'Gravieres' 2018
Santenay 1er Cru 'Les Gravieres' can be either red or white. 'Gravieres' implies gravel, loose stony soil. And the upper part of the vineyard is such. This is excellent soil for Chardonnay, with one of the best expositions in the southern Cote d'Or. Mineral and smoky, lemongrass acidity, dead-center structure, this is a Borgeot white par excellence.
Saint Aubin 1er Cru 'Les Champlots' 2018
We met Gilles Bouton back in the days of our hotel-barge Le Papillon when we were cruising the inland waterways in search of the real Burgundy. I remember the first taste of his Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘en Remilly’, thinking we had discovered the best deal in white Burgundy ever. Gilles Bouton took the reins of his maternal grandfather’s 4 hectare (9.6 acre) domain in 1977. The holding now totals 15 hectares (36 acres) and is spread out over four villages (Saint Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault) all prime property in the so-called Golden Triangle of white Burgundy. Gilles was joined by his son, Julien, at the end of 2008. The domain today makes on average 60,000 bottles per year. The Boutons sell most of their wine to private individuals either out-the-door at the domain or at numerous wine salons in France.From a steep south-west facing slope overlooking the village of Gamay, Les Champlots gets the full afternoon sun, and is hence always that bit more exuberant than the ‘En Remilly’ from the other side of the hill. Expressive, floral, and orange-blossom citric, it’s supple and well-balanced, with a smoky mineral in the finish.
Note: These wines are sourced from small producers, and so quantities are very limited. If ever we run out of a particular wine, we will substitute a wine of equal or greater value.