If 2016 tested the faith and resolve of winemakers in Burgundy, 2017 has to be seen as recompense, and as a miracle of sorts. While the rest of wine-growing Europe suffered crippling late-spring frosts in 2017, Burgundy for the most part (for once!) survived.
The whites shine, particularly in hard-done Chablis (where there is better balance even than the marvelous 2014s). In the rest of Burgundy, the whites have the tension of 2014 but the open flattery of 2015. The reds are juicy and crisp and open, and the regional appellations will be ready to drink soon. More serious appellations will be considered ‘typical’, in the best sense of the word: classic wines from a vintage that Burgundians will love. They are likely to be lost in the hub-bub that the 2018s will bring. But the yields were good in 2017, so you will be able to find them for a while. And you’ll do well to seek them out.
This mixed assortment of 2017 wines include 1 bottle of each PLUS Ground Shipping Included:
Jean-Jacques Girard Beaune 1er Cru 'Clos du Roi' 2017
Beaune 1er Cru 'Clos du Roi' is, as the name suggests, one of the best parcels in the hills above Beaune. Beaunes can have the spice of Savigny, so the style plays well into Jean-Jacques Girard's hands, but the Clos du Roi has the oomph of the Corton mountain. Red fruit ans spice, great building intensity, round, fleshy and persistent, It's a fist in a velvet glove.
Jean-Claude Rateau Beaune 1er Cru 'Les Reversees' 2017
From young and old vines, on brown limestone subsoil and clay topsoil, in biodynamic agriculture. Long, slow day fermentation with manual pigeage, aged 18 months in not-new oak. Rich, showing deep aromas of blackberry, violets and earth with hints of citrus, plum and spice. The palate is round and ripe with firm acidity and deep black fruits ripe plum and earth going to a lovely long finish. While this can be enjoyed young it will be best after 5 to 7 years of aging.
Domaine Albert Boillet Volnay 'Les Petits Poisots' 2017
A single-vineyard Volnay from the heart of the village, this ‘Petits Poisots’ shows great Pinot fruit in its youth. Delicate Volnay fruit, floral (the typical violet notes of a Volnay), supple but dense, mouth-wateringly bright, with a long, lingering fruit-driven finish. This is a wine that is charming now, and which will open progressively over the next 5 years. Buy a case and drink a bottle every 6 months over 6 years and you will see a great Pinot unfold.
Domaine De Suremain Chateau de Monthelie 2017
This village appellation Monthelie is an ‘assemblage’ of four different parcels of vines, each of which is vinified and raised separately. Yields are very low here (22hl/ha), and the result is a wine of intense limpid ruby color, with a youthful fruit and spice attack that already shows complexity and elegance. 2010 is showing itself to be a vintage with great aging potential, and the tight tannins and juicy acidity that we see here proves the point.
Domaine Jean Marechal Mercurey Vieilles Vignes 2017
Assembled from three separate parcels in appellation Mercurey. Open and juicy cherry fruit, a little touch of leather in its backbone. Balanced fruit and acid, mouthwatering and fresh. Lovely long finish all in fruit.
Domaine Jean Fery Cote de Nuits Villages 2017
It is as accessible as it is amiable, honest and straightforward in taste. The red, which has the gleaming crimson highlights of the Pinot grape, veers sometimes towards an intense garnet hue or, when young, a bright cherry. Its aromas run a classic spectrum through cherry, gooseberry and blackcurrant to notes of underbrush, mushroom and spices (cinnamon). This is a big-hearted wine, powerful in the mouth, full and meaty, and its tannins (more conspicuously present in the younger wines) are well smoothed-down. Ruby red with fresh fruit cherry and black currant dominant. Spicy, with good structure and fine tannins. An elegant wine drinking way above its appellation.
Domaine Borgeot Santenay 1er Cru 'Gravieres' 2017
Santenay 1er Cru 'Les Gravieres' can be either red or white. 'Gravieres' implies gravel, loose stony soil. And the upper part of the vineyard is such. This is excellent soil for Chardonnay, with one of the best expositions in the southern Cote d'Or. Mineral and smoky, lemongrass acidity, dead-center structure, this is a Borgeot white par excellence.
Agnes Paquet Auxey-Duresses Blanc 'Patience No 10' 2017
Agnes uses 350 liter barrels (30% new) for this exceptional Auxey cuvee, which is only made in years that she thinks it propitious. The wine spends 12 months in the wood, then 4 months in steel to sharpen the focus. This is a serious food wine, voluptuous and rich, with deep fruit and great structure. Drinks way above its appellation!
Chateau Cary Potet Montagny 1er Cru 'Les Burnins' 2017
From the southern reaches of the Cote Chalonnaise, the wines of Montagny are among the best value in White Burgundy. With a unique and dusty minerality that many compare to a suave left-bank Chablis, the wines also profit from their southern position, so ripeness and maturity yield seductive and charming Chardonnay. This premier cru ‘Les Burnins’ has a mineral attack with orange blosson floral notes and spicy round fruit. Rich and smoky, with green apple acidity and a touch of butter. Good long finish carried by the minerality.
Jean Dauvissat Pere et Fils Chablis 1er Cru ‘Fourchaume’ 2017
Fourchaume is the best known of the Chablis premier crus, perhaps because it is an extension of the Grand Cru vineyards, and benefits from a similar Right Bank exposition. Round, mature fruit, crystalline purity, sweet, lemony acidity classic cool river rock minerality. A classic Chablis premier cru.
Domaine Jean Fery Pernand-Vergelesses 'Les Combottes' 2017
Pernand 'Les Combottes' lies in a heat trap above and behind the village of Pernand-Vergelesses. In a sense it is the last vineyard in the line leading off of Corton-Charlemagne, which explains why you often see this village appellation bottled as a single vineyard lieu-dit. The Domaine Jean Fery has its roots in Echevronne, just above the village of Pernand-Vergelesses, so this is, in a sense, their signature white. Floral and mineral, uniquely Pernand, there's a freshness and a purity that is fleshy and fruity but well-cut and firm.
Domaine Germain Pere et Fils Saint Romain Blanc 2017
With admirable yields (45hl/ha), this Saint Romain white is taken seriously right from the start. Add 30% new oak and 8-9 months of aging and batonnage, and you get a very classy Chardonnay with the unique and superbly subtle Saint Romain minerality, full, rich and dense, with elegant floral notes, good acidity in its youthful charm. We found this wine on a restaurant list in Santenay and were so impressed we went the next day and became friends with the producers.
Note: These wines are sourced from small producers, and so quantities are very limited. If ever we run out of a particular wine, we will substitute a wine of equal or greater value.