Burgundy Winemakers: Spotlight on Agnes Paquet

 

Discover Burgundy Winemakers in Auxey­-Duresses

Auxey­-Duresses -­ the appellation in which Burgundy winemakers such as Agnes Paquet work (a star who has built one of the most exciting and innovative reputations around today) – was not always known by that name. Prior to 1928 it was simply Auxey, and before that it was Aucé, before which it was a variety of other Roman names dating right back to 859. Then, in the late 1920s it followed the trend in the Cote d’Or and added the name of one of its top vineyards, and Auxey­Duresses was born.

Nothing remains the same forever, and the development not only of this appellation but also one of its star Burgundy winemakers, the Domaine Agnes Paquet, is testament to this. As far back as the 1950’s, the Paquet’s have held vine parcels here, but until the new millennium these were rented to local vignerons. When the Paquet’s decided to sell up, Agnes stepped up and took them on herself. She did things the proper way, however, studying her craft and progressing from apprentice to proprietor and winemaker extraordinaire, all the time adding more and more vine parcels. Over the years she has produced highly unique wines under her own name.

 

Agnes Pacquet, Burgundy Winemaker, Auxey-­Duresses

Agnes works one of the most beautiful areas of countryside in France, with high quality terroir to boot. Auxey-­Duresses has a high number of Burgundy winemakers proportionate to its small number of residents – at least 25 vignerons for a total population of around 350. The nearby hamlet of Petit-­Auxey holds the key to the origins of its slightly larger neighbor. It was one of the first Celtic settlements here along roads built by the Romans. The vines continue onwards, past Petit-­Auxey and on to Melin.

The location of this appellation – being in a side­valley off the famous Cote de Beaune – brings cooler winds which create a quite different style of Burgundy wine than other somewhat warmer communes. In terms of its terroir, under foot the soil changes according to sub­region, varying from a mix of pebbles and marl (the term used to describe a rich mix of clay and limestone so beloved of some winemakers) to more limey soil, and finely­textured soils akin to the glorious wines of Meursault.

Crucially, they are classed by many as a lesser­ appellation, meaning that the prices are still much more reasonable than other bigger names, but with no drop in quality.

The white wines from Auxey-­Duresses are incredibly satisfying, and as not that many are produced it really feels like an occasion to have one and share it with friends. They have a crystal clarity in the glass, and immediately you get green apple and fresh almonds on the nose – sometimes even a sort of biscuity aroma with smoky and flinty minerality. They can be enjoyed with a wide range of dishes, especially seafood such as salmon or shrimp, even when they are in spicy sauces. This is because the fruit in the wine ensures a long finish which stands up well to bold flavors.

The red wines, on the other hand, (only around 25% of total volume produced here) are bright ruby and well­balanced. Some can be rustic when they’re young but a little age soon coaxes them into producing more velvety, earthy notes, and even spicy, leathery flavors. The tannins are always well­ moderated, meaning you can enjoy these wines with even the most delicate of meats – and that even stretches to grilled fish dishes, if you’re feeling adventurous.

On our wine shop at BurgundyWine.com you can find wines from more than 40 Burgundy winemakers -­ including some of Agnes’s best vintages, including:

• Auxey-­Duresses Blanc 'Patience No 13' ­ - Great acidity remains on these whites, giving the vintage a “brighter” feel than hot vintages prior. Alcohol may be a touch higher, though it is balanced with the structure. Riper fruit, of course, with zippy mineral notes and lingering complexity in the finish.

• Auxey­-Duresses Rouge ­- A good percentage of whole grape in the maceration gives this Auxey red a delicate encapsulated burst of cherry fruit. The Auxey terroir and tannic structure is on display, and the ensemble is well­structured and juicy in youth.

 

 

Chassagne­-Montrachet

But that’s not all Agnes has to offer. Her wines from the Chassagne­-Montrachet appellation are just as beguiling. This commune, located in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune, is one of the three key villages in the "golden triangle" of white Burgundy, alongside Puligny­Montrachet and Meursault. The broad hillside it shares with Puligny­-Montrachet produces a superlative expression of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. In Chassagne, these grapes are cultivated side by side due to the complexity of the terroir. The region also includes some plots in the neighboring village of Remigny, which shares similar soil conditions. Additionally, extensive marble quarries in the area contribute to the landscape, providing the stone used in notable buildings such as the Trocadero in Paris and, more recently, the Louvre Pyramid.

The richness and strength of white wines pair beautifully with delicate white meats like poultry and veal. They also complement fish dishes, whether served with well­ spiced couscous, in curries, or stir-­fries. Salmon is particularly compatible. Additionally, the Premier Crus can enhance the flavors of crayfish, lobster, and even foie gras.

• Agnes Paquet Chassagne-­Montrachet 'Les Battaudes' – this wine hails from a single vineyard just below the Premier Cru one of Morgeot. The soil here is clay, and so the wine is deep and rich with a fabulous earthy texture. But we also call it light and airy – and it hits that perfect sweet spot on the finish where it is long and complex.

Like many Burgundy winemakers, Agnes has a respect for the past and has renovated an old stone barn beside her home. She now produces quintessentially Burgundy Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, from 31 acres of land. Around half of her domaine is given over to producing these wines, whilst her other parcels of vines can be found in Pommard, Saint­Aubin, Chassagne­Montrachet and the Haute­Côte in Meloisey. Terroir is key for her winemaking – she follows organic and biodynamic principles, banishing chemical herbicides from 2004 onwards. Using manual harvests, indigenous yeasts and barrel fermentation, her wines afford every opportunity for the land to express itself through the grape.

Wine is akin to a religion in these parts – hardly surprising given the region’s rich history, and the fact that Auxey-­Duresses was formerly a property of Cluny abbey, which at one time produced both grains and grapes. It seems those prayers for good harvests and great wines are still being answered here.

 

 

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