Burgundy Winemakers: Spotlight on Louis Picamelot, Crémant Specialist

Discover the Crémant de Bourgogne by Burgundy Winemaker Louis Picamelot

People lucky enough to come from the beautiful village of Rully located in the Côte Chalonnaise region, are known as Rullyotins. One of the most notable of these to produce sparkling wine was the son of a cooper (barrel maker) known as Louis Picamelot, all the way back in 1926. Rully is now known not only for its quality red and white wines, but also for its sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne, since at least the early 19th century.

A quick reminder: Crémant de Bourgogne is a different beast to its more famous sparkling cousin—Champagne—and that’s as it should be. It’s not trying to be Champagne, but instead has its own unique regional identity. (Just be careful not to confuse Crémant with Cramant, a Grand Cru village in the Champagne region). You can see examples of various sparkling wines from Burgundy winemakers on BurgundyWine.com by Elden Selections.

In 1948, several bottles of Monsieur Louis Picamelot’s wine were put in the holds of the first boats chartered for Paul Emile­Victor’s early expeditions to Antarctica. Anybody who has tasted a bottle of Picamelot wine will agree this was probably a wise move!

Nowadays, Philippe Chautard, as grandson and manager, maintains the exacting standards that have been a mark of these wines for decades. They sold their first wines outside of France in 1989 and haven’t looked back since.

The year 2000 was a really significant year for the Louis Picamelot business; they acquired a former quarry of over 4000m2 and transformed it into a modern winery, hewn straight into the rock. The conditions in the old quarry are naturally temperature ­controlled, which fits well into the house’s environmental approach. Their new cellar marked a pivot for the business and the progress of a rising Crémant de Bourgogne star amongst Burgundy winemakers, towards even greater success.

 

Try Burgundy Winemaker Louis’s Best Crémant de Bourgogne

The two Crémants from this domain that we sell on BurgundyWine.com have to be tried to be believed:

• His Crémant de Bourgogne 'En Chazot' NV is what we call a blanc de noirs – in other words, it’s white but made from black grapes (the juice, not the skins). It’s aged for a full three years and is all about fresh citrus notes, and red and green apples.

• For something even more special, try the 'Les Reipes' NV. This Cuvée is Louis Picamelot’s interpretation of a Blanc de Blancs (made using Chardonnay) that is known for its great purity and precision, resulting from perfectionism and a constant search for refinement. It is from exceptional terroir, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2015, and found on the village of Saint-­Aubin's south­ facing slopes, about 350 meters up.

Burgundy winemakers like Louis Picamelot make it look easy, but making Crémant in Burgundy is not always straightforward. The cost of grapes here can be higher than those found in Champagne, though consumers are less willing to pay Champagne­ style prices in the Bourgogne. The changing climate is playing its part, too. Recently, producers of Crémant have found it increasingly difficult to find enough fruit to make it with. However, as the grapes used in Crémant tend to be cultivated higher up the slopes than Champagne, they may be protected somewhat from increasing temperatures in the near ­term.

One of the features which marks Louis out as a winemaker is that every one of the bottles he produces is from a single vintage – in other words, he does not blend vintages, and there are no ‘house’ wines – so you can fully appreciate the character and nuances of every vintage.

 

Crémant vs Champagne vs Prosecco?

Crémant de Bourgogne is produced by Burgundy winemakers from various grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Gamay. It is made in the same traditional method as Champagne. In contrast, Prosecco must contain a minimum of 85% Glera grapes, which are Italian grapes that ripen relatively late in the year and have a straw ­like color.

The production methods for Crémant and Champagne are similar, but there are key differences when compared to Prosecco, which is made using the Charmat or Tank Method. This method was first developed in 1895 by Italian Federico Martinotti and later refined by Eugène Charmat in 1907, hence the name. In the Charmat method, secondary fermentation occurs in large stainless­ steel tanks. Yeast and sugar are added to the base wine, which is then put in a pressure tank for fermentation. As the yeast consumes the sugar, carbon dioxide is produced, pressurizing the tank and carbonating the wine. This process can take as little as 30 days, resulting in a sparkling wine.

Unlike Prosecco, Crémant (like Champagne) undergoes its secondary fermentation in the bottle. The aging time for Crémant is significantly longer than that of Prosecco. Crémant aged for at least 24 months is labeled as ‘Eminent,’ while those aged even longer are called ‘Grand Eminents.’ Because of this process, Crémant tends to have greater depth and richness compared to many Proseccos, featuring toasty overtones similar to those found in quality Champagne.

As the name suggests, Crémant has a rich, creamy texture and is somewhat softer than Prosecco. It’s also highly versatile, serving as an excellent aperitif or complement to main dishes. The rosé variety, in particular, pairs well with sweet desserts like ice cream or fruit tarts, and can be enhanced with cassis for a sweeter drink.

Crémant wines can be produced in any of seven different regions in France, not just Burgundy, including Crémant d’Alsace and Crémant de Bordeaux. Around 400 communes in Burgundy produce Crémant de Bourgogne, available in various styles: blanc, blanc de blancs, blanc de noirs, and rosé. The rosé variety is particularly noteworthy and is growing in popularity, also seen in Prosecco rosé.

What’s clear is that Champagne’s historic vice­like grip on French sparkling wines is gradually loosening, thanks to fantastic sparkling wines from around France and beyond—led by the superb ­quality Crémant being made in Burgundy. And leading the way amongst Burgundy winemakers is the house of Louis Picamelot.

 

Meet Burgundy winemakers and taste their wines when you stay at Domaine de Cromey, our Burgundian farmhouse, available to book. And don’t forget our great Burgundy Wine Club is open for membership too! Read more interesting articles about Burgundy wine on our blog, such as the difference between a Domaine and a Chateau, and a look at Wine Etiquette ­ and whether it really matters!