Marchand-Tawse Chambolle Musigny 2022
The wines of Chambolle-Musigny are situated somewhere between the strength of Bonnes-Mares and the finesse of Musigny. With these two great Grand Cru, and a couple dozen excellent 1er Cru vineyards, in the tiniest of villages, Chambolle is a focal point of what makes Burgundy Burgundy. We talk of silk and lace, feminine (the un-PC French always say). This village wine is an assemblage two parcels from the lower slopes 'Les Sordes' and 'Les Chardannes', and gives you that juicy black cherry black currant fruit, smoky and fine. And then the intensity starts to climb, slowly at first, then vigorously through to an energetic finish.
BURGUNDY 2022 VINTAGE
After three successive high-quality but low-quantity vintages, winemakers in Burgundy are refilling their cellars with an excellent 2022 harvest.This is not to say that it was an easy ride. Once again, frost, heat and drought put stress on the growing season, but timing is everything, and the extreme weather did much less damage than in previous years.
Winters have been wet and mild for years now. The winter of 2021-22 was not, with less than average rainfall and seasonal temperatures. Under these ‘normal’ conditions, we would expect budburst in the first half of April. But summer-like conditions at the end of March forced the vines, especially Chardonnay, to bud early, and we went into frost season with tender green buds exposed. There were two nights in the coming week below zero, but damage was limited.
Spring conditions set in in mid-April, but Summer followed soon thereafter, dry with spiky heat waves. The vines went wild. Winemakers fought to keep the growth under control. And the fight continued until flowering, which happened a couple of weeks early in mid-May.
The warm, dry conditions led to nearly-perfect flowering. We saw for the first time the potential of a great crop, with lots of beautiful, full, well-formed grape bunches; and an early harvest, with fruit setting well ahead of schedule.
But the drought held, and the fear was that this beautiful fruit would shrivel on the vine. Finally, at the end of June, the rain came. Summer storms bring with them the risk of hail, so all eyes were on the sky as the storms were sometimes violent causing significant but limited hail damage. The rains were intermittent, but regular for the next weeks. The cumulative rainfall would not be enough to see the crop through to harvest, however.
The heat waves continued through the rains, and so the risk of fungal disease, usually associated with wet conditions, dried up. But temperatures spiked and dry conditions set in again. The grapes ripened in a full-blown heat wave. Winemakers had to keep a close eye on sugar levels, as the risk was that ripeness could gallop away at the last minute.
And then, just about the time when it looked like an over-ripe mid-August harvest was imminent, it rained again. And the producers were able to let that water absorb into the fruit, increasing the volume of juice that was ultimately harvested in the first week of September.
2022, both white and red, are showing real depth and ripeness. And while there was once again very little malic acid, the tartaric acid holds the balance and structure together. Early tastings in the barrel show enormous charm and vitality. Very promising.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
COTES DE NUITS
Chambolle-Musigny is a tiny village, and is likely to remain so. Expansion would mean encroaching on some of the best vineyard land in the world. With two superb Grands Crus, Bonnes Mares (which links Chambolle to Morey-Saint-Denis), and Musigny, which overlooks the Clos de Vougeot, the village also has several prestigious premier cru, notably among them Les Amoureuses. Its AOC dates from September 1936, making it one of the first French vineyards to be designated.
Produced in the commune of Chambolle-Musigny, the appellation Chambolle-Musigny includes 24 premiers crus as well as two Grands Crus: Musigny and Bonnes Mares.
Wine
Chambolle-Musigny is Pinot Noir par excellence, and is often regarded as the most elegant wine of the Côte de Nuits. Its intensity is subtle. It tends to be bright ruby and may darken a little over time. Its violet bouquet is one of the most easily recognizable in Burgundy. With aging it tends towards spiced ripe fruits and truffle, underbrush and animal notes. Rich and complex, it is silky and lacy on the one hand, and solid and structured on the other.
Terroirs
The slope faces east at altitudes of 250-300 meters with only a shallow covering of soil overlying the parent rock, but fissures in the hard Jurassic limestone allow the roots to seek dig deep into the complex sub-soil. Gravel in the valley bottom ensures good drainage.
Color
Red wines exclusively - Pinot Noir
Production surface area
1 hectare (ha) = 2.4 acres
152.23 ha (including 56.23 ha premier cru)
Food
With a personality that is both powerful and delicate, the wines of Chambolle call for sophisticated cuisine. Feathered game in sauce, roasted lamb or a free-range capon. Roast veal's subtle texture would work too. Cheeses should be mild : Brillat-Savarin, Reblochon, Cîteaux, Vacherin, Brie de Meaux or Chaource.
Appellations
The following climats are classified as premier cru:
Aux Beaux Bruns
Aux Combottes
Aux Echanges
Derrière la Grange
La Combe d'Orveau
Les Amoureuses
Les Baudes
Les Borniques
Les Carrières
Les Chabiots
Les Charmes
Les Chatelots
Les Combottes
Les Cras
Les Feusselottes (ou « Les Feusselotes »)
Les Fuées
Les Groseilles
Les Gruenchers
Les Hauts Doix
Les Lavrottes
Les Noirots
Les Plantes
Les Sentiers
Les Véroilles
The following climats are village wines from a single vineyard known as a lieu-dit:
Aux Croix
Derrière le Four
La Combe d'Orveau
La Taupev
Le Village
Les Argillières
Les Athets
Les Babillères
Les Barottes
Les Bas Doix
Les Bussières
Les Chardannes
Les clos
Les Clos de l'Orme
Les Condemennes
Les Cras
Les Creux Baissants
Les Danguerrins
Les Drazey
Les Echezeaux
Les Fouchères
Les Fremières
Les Gamaires
Les Guérippes
Les Herbues
Les Jutruots
Les Mal Carrées
Les Maladières
Les Mombies
Les Nazoires
Les Pas de Chat
Les Porlottes
Les Sordes