Domaine Jean Fery Hautes Cotes de Beaune 2022
In the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, vineyards lie at an average altitude of 300 to 400 meters (100 to 150 meters higher than the Côte vineyards). Good exposition compensates for the influence of altitude. However, it is more exposed to frosts, and grapes ripen later. These young Pinot Noir vines are planted at a density of 3,300 vines per hectare, producing 5,000 bottles a year. The vines are pruned using the Guyot double method with organic farming. The wine is a bright cherry color, with notes of spicy red fruit and fresh red cherry. The palate is fresh, again with red fruit and cherries, and lively crunchy tannins. Drinking well now, with good acidity on the finish.
BURGUNDY 2022 VINTAGE
After three successive high-quality but low-quantity vintages, winemakers in Burgundy are refilling their cellars with an excellent 2022 harvest.This is not to say that it was an easy ride. Once again, frost, heat and drought put stress on the growing season, but timing is everything, and the extreme weather did much less damage than in previous years.
Winters have been wet and mild for years now. The winter of 2021-22 was not, with less than average rainfall and seasonal temperatures. Under these ‘normal’ conditions, we would expect budburst in the first half of April. But summer-like conditions at the end of March forced the vines, especially Chardonnay, to bud early, and we went into frost season with tender green buds exposed. There were two nights in the coming week below zero, but damage was limited.
Spring conditions set in in mid-April, but Summer followed soon thereafter, dry with spiky heat waves. The vines went wild. Winemakers fought to keep the growth under control. And the fight continued until flowering, which happened a couple of weeks early in mid-May.
The warm, dry conditions led to nearly-perfect flowering. We saw for the first time the potential of a great crop, with lots of beautiful, full, well-formed grape bunches; and an early harvest, with fruit setting well ahead of schedule.
But the drought held, and the fear was that this beautiful fruit would shrivel on the vine. Finally, at the end of June, the rain came. Summer storms bring with them the risk of hail, so all eyes were on the sky as the storms were sometimes violent causing significant but limited hail damage. The rains were intermittent, but regular for the next weeks. The cumulative rainfall would not be enough to see the crop through to harvest, however.
The heat waves continued through the rains, and so the risk of fungal disease, usually associated with wet conditions, dried up. But temperatures spiked and dry conditions set in again. The grapes ripened in a full-blown heat wave. Winemakers had to keep a close eye on sugar levels, as the risk was that ripeness could gallop away at the last minute.
And then, just about the time when it looked like an over-ripe mid-August harvest was imminent, it rained again. And the producers were able to let that water absorb into the fruit, increasing the volume of juice that was ultimately harvested in the first week of September.
2022, both white and red, are showing real depth and ripeness. And while there was once again very little malic acid, the tartaric acid holds the balance and structure together. Early tastings in the barrel show enormous charm and vitality. Very promising.
HAUTES-COTES DE BEAUNE
COTE DE BEAUNE
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune is part of the larger Bourgogne appellation, and refers to the elevated slopes and hillsides situated above the Côte de Beaune.
The vineyards are located on the higher-altitude slopes to the west of the Côte de Beaune, overlooking famous villages like Beaune, Pommard, and Meursault. The higher elevation can influence the climate and the character of the wines.
The region experiences a continental climate, which can be challenging for grape growing. However, the elevated sites allow for better drainage and sunlight exposure, contributing to the development of ripe and flavorful grapes.
The soils in this appellation vary, but they often include limestone and marl. These soil types, combined with the elevation, can impact the minerality and structure of the wines.
The primary grape varieties are Chardonnay and Aligoté for white wines and Pinot Noir for red wines.