As with nearly every village in this zone, the plantation of Chardonnay is on the rise. White wines used to account for less than 1% of the output but now make up more than 15%. White Santenay should be brilliant greeny gold, mineral and floral. Those who like their wines grassy, nutty and with a fresh minerality that continues through a long finish won’t be disappointed. This white would be a great choice for soft, unctuous dishes like fish cous-cous, mushroom risotto or poultry in a creamy sauce. For cheese pairings, look for a Beaufort or Comté.

Maranges reds are a brilliant raspberry red. Their fruit notes are blackcurrant and spicy. The wines are warm, juicy, with a tannic structure that has become delicate and subtle, as producers have learned to produce softer tannins. Liquorice and pepper are the foundations that this otherwise fruity Pinot are based upon. They are generally for early drinking, but with a good acidic balance to keep them fresh for years. The reds of Maranges can be velvety but quite firm, with tannins that need roasted meats with a crunchiness: roast fowl (dark or white meat), roast lamb, or rabbit. These wines also go well with country pâtés. For cheese, go for creaminess Brillat-Savarin, Brie or Reblochon.