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Elden Selections



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We met Gilles Bouton back in the days of our hotel-barge Le Papillon when we were cruising the inland waterways in search of the real Burgundy. I remember the first taste of his Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘en Remilly’, thinking we had discovered the best deal in white Burgundy ever.

With several Saint Aubin premier cru vineyards touching on the Grand Cru Montrachets, the potential for finesse, complexity and subtlety is enormous in this production zone. So why is Saint Aubin still one of those appellations ‘to discover’? Why is it not better know?

Well, there are three main blocks of premier cru vineyards in the valleys and steep hillsides that make up the village of Saint Aubin and the neighboring hamlet of Gamay (where the Domaine Bouton is located), and these three blocks deliver three different profiles of Saint Aubin.

The best zone, as you might have guessed, is on the south-facing slopes above the Montrachets. And it’s here that we find all of Gilles Bouton’s Saint Aubin 1er Cru. ‘Les Murgers des Dents de Chien’ is perhaps the most famous, but ‘En Remilly’, ‘Les Champlots’ et La Chateniere’ are all in the hills sloping down toward the villages of Puligny and Chassagne. Noble vineyards all.

Gilles Bouton took the reins of his maternal grandfather’s 4 hectare (9.6 acre) domain in 1977. The holding now totals 15 hectares (36 acres) and is spread out over four villages (Saint Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault) all prime property in the so-called Golden Triangle of white Burgundy.

6 pack includes 3 each of these WHITES  -- Only a few bottles remaining here in the states, so get them while you can.

Domaine Gilles Bouton Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 'La Garenne' 2018
Gilles Bouton’s Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’ touches the premier cru ‘Champs gains’ as well as the Saint Aubin 1er Cru ‘Murgers de Dents de Chien’ (which Gille also has a holding in. So we are in noble vineyard territory here. This is a golden wine, in many senses of the word. Ripe fruit, almond undertones, green apple minerality. Toasty croissant and flint combine in the mid-palate with just a touch of honey. Subtle and balanced. Concentrated. ‘Harmonious’ is the word that springs to mind.

Domaine Gilles Saint Aubin 1er Cru 'Murgers des Dents de Chiens' 2019
Gilles has two different parcels in this, the best known of the Saint-Aubin premier crus. One with old vines, situated near the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Garennes’ (which he also makes), and the other near Puligny 1er Cru ‘Folatieres’.  He makes these wine in double-sized barrels, 40% new oak, to tame the tannins. There is a deep, almost Meursault quality to the Dents de Chien, spicy and complex.  Great continuity from attack, through mid-palate and on to a superb finish.

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