The Exception to the Rule – A Burgundy Winemaker Growing Sauvignon Grapes in Burgundy
The region of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux is the only place in Burgundy where they grow Sauvignon grapes. As you probably know, all other grapes are either Chardonnay or Pinot Noir (with a small amount of Aligoté and Gamay). Sauvignon is a vigorous grower, producing small clusters of fruit which are a wonderful golden yellow when ripe. The wines these vines produce in the Burgundy soil are fresh, light and very drinkable. In particular, they are known for the citrus and gooseberry notes that make them so recognisable. Some have also ventured to compare them to grapefruit or crumpled currant leaves. These are wines with a spicy almost iodine finish, and when they have been aged this flavour profile makes them perfect for making jams or candied fruit. Hardly any Burgundy winemakers grow Sauvignon, but one in particular has made an art form out of it.
Domaine Félix: A Legacy of Tradition and Innovation in Burgundy
Domaine Félix, one of the Burgundy winemakers that we at burgundywine.com have known and sold for years, encapsulates the values of centuries of winemaking heritage here in Burgundy. With roots tracing back to 1690, the Félix family has cultivated vineyards in Saint-Bris le Vineux, a village renowned for its unique terroir and commitment to a true exception to the rule – the Sauvignon grape.
Dedicated Diversification
In the early part of the 20th century, the Félix family expanded their operations, cultivating vines and selling their produce in barrels to Parisian markets. And by the 1920s, they had also diversified into cereal and cherry cultivation, alongside dairy farming.
In 1987, current owner Hervé Félix took over the family estate, with Marie-Claire. He was something of a pioneer, and his return marked a pivotal shift towards estate bottling and direct-to-consumer sales. Under his stewardship, the domaine expanded from 11 to 31 hectares, incorporating vineyards in such prestigious appellations as Chablis, Irancy, and Saint-Bris. This expansion meant Domaine Félix would go on to produce over 160,000 bottles annually.
Embracing Sustainable Practices
They have a saying at Domaine Félix; “tradition doesn’t exclude modernism or dynamism”. As Burgundy winemakers, they have long championed progressive environmental stewardship. Since 1996, the estate has adopted “la lutte raisonnée,” (which means a “reasoned fight”), a pest control approach that minimizes chemical interventions. This method has led to a resurgence of biodiversity within the vineyards, with the return of snails and worms, both indicators of a healthier ecosystem.
Domaine Félix prove clearly that winemaking is both an art and a science. The estate uses modern techniques such as temperature-controlled fermentation, optical sorting, and pneumatic pressing to ensure the highest quality in their wines. Red wines undergo traditional methods including destemming, sorting, and aging in new oak barrels. Such a meticulous approach produces wines that are rich, supple, and expressive of their terroir.
The Best Sauvignon Wines in Burgundy from Appellation St Bris
Domaine Félix’s wines reflect the diversity of the Burgundy region and the fascinating and varied styles of Burgundy winemakers. The estate produces wines from several appellations, in both Sauvignon and Chardonnay grapes, and each is a reflection of the family’s dedication to tradition and quality, truly embodying Burgundy’s rich winemaking heritage. Try these from our wine shop at burgundywine.com:
- Domaine Felix Saint Bris: This is a fresh and lively wine with those famous gooseberry notes that are so beloved of the Sauvignon grape, as well as notes of citrus fruits. It has a bold attack, a mid-palate that is fruity, herbaceous and vivacious. This is a village level wine from the vineyards of Auxerrois, and the appellation is reserved specifically for white St Bris wines.
- Domaine Felix Saint Bris ‘Cuvee Sainte Claire’: You’ll know this is Sauvignon throughout from the off with its discreet grassy notes and hints of herby thyme. Yes you’ll get the gooseberry, but also be prepared to be wowed by lime peel, green apple and pear into the bargain. As a bonus you’ll also find a nice smoky minerality, and a long spicy, fruity finish.
- Domaine Felix Bourgogne Cotes d’Auxerre Blanc: This is a wine from the fascinating region found just next to Chablis in the far north of the Burgundy wine region, and represents great value from the Chardonnay grape. The cooler temperatures here have traditionally meant ripening has been hard-won, but now with warmer temperatures being seen more often, this has become a somewhat overlooked and undervalued wine region – meaning there are hidden gems like this one waiting to found at astonishingly good prices. Peach and spice on the nose with a light tinge of oakiness. Great minerality and length, and everything finely balanced.
Recognition and Awards
Domaine Félix’s commitment to excellence has led to much well-deserved recognition. Since 1935, the estate has garnered over 367 medals and awards from prestigious competitions such as the Concours Général Agricole de Paris, Concours Mondial du Sauvignon, and Decanter World Wine Awards.
In 2016, Hervé’s son Olivier joined the family estate, bringing with him a wealth of experience from international industries. He oversees management of the vineyard, the winemaking, and also the export development, ensuring that the legacy of Domaine Félix continues to thrive and evolve in the modern world.
Stay With Us and Visit the Domaine Félix Tasting Cellar
Nestled in the picturesque landscapes of Burgundy, our charming home at Domaine de Cromey offers a truly authentic experience for wine lovers. The boutique accommodation provides a serene retreat, allowing guests to unwind after a hard day of exploring local vineyards – including at Domaine Félix! If you want to discover this most unusual of Burgundy appellations, then their cellar is open to the general public, and the domaine is open from Monday to Saturday most weeks, though it’s best to make an appointment first. We also have our very own refurbished tasting room at Cromey where you can try wines from our capacious cellar…
One of the highlights of staying at Domaine de Cromey is the opportunity to participate in guided tastings that delve into the region’s rich winemaking history. Visitors can taste exquisite wines crafted lovingly from the renowned Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, gaining insights directly from knowledgeable Burgundy winemakers who are passionate about their craft and whom we have known for years. With many famous appellations just a short drive away, guests can easily arrange vineyard tours or partake in local events and festivals celebrating Burgundy’s wine heritage.
For anyone looking to experience the beauty of Burgundy wines and gastronomy while enjoying breathtaking scenery and meeting Burgundy winemakers, Domaine de Cromey is an exceptional choice. Click here to read about day trips, or here to learn about cycling excursions. And when you’re ready to book and come and say hi to us, click here to secure your vacation of a lifetime today!