AGNES PAQUET AUXEY-DURESSES BLANC ‘PATIENCE’ VERTICAL TRIO
Agnes Paquet is a class act. Over the past 20 years, she's single-handedly built one of the most 'Insider' of all the Insider domains that we know. Try one bottle of each vintage:
AUXEY-DURESSES WHITE 'PATIENCE 10' 2017
A very warm November and December 2016 led into a troubling, still-warm January 2017: not good for the vines, which need the temperature to drop to allow for much-needed rest and relief from bugs. It was a relief, then, when the cold snap finally arrived in February. A beautiful early spring awoke the vines, and winemakers rejoiced: life was looking good! But, such is life: again, a sudden temperature drop in mid-April meant yet another big risk to yields. This time, the preparation was better, and many bales of hay were burnt, creating a smog in order to protect the vintage. It worked, to an extent, though temperatures remained hot throughout the season. Rain was welcomed at the end of August; some say it helped ‘revitalize’ the vines where the ripening process had stalled. Harvest occurred in early September. The 2017 vintage was a small-yield with a ‘Burgundian typicity.’ Bright acidity, just-ripe complexity of fruit with a firm mineral finish. This vintage is a great model of the historical Burgundian style.
AUXEY-DURESSES WHITE 'PATIENCE 11' 2018
After two low-yield vintages, the famous French skepticism was rife, and it continued through most of this growing season despite particularly positive weather conditions. 2018 saw a lovely, settled spring. Any potential frost damage was well-prepared for, but the weather stayed warm into April and placed the vines in a good position for summer. The only major concern was lack of rain. (Remember, in Burgundy, watering of vines is prohibited, so lack of rain can result in excess concentration in the fruit.) Harvest was perfectly aligned with flowering—the 100 Day4Rule proving itself true—and our winemakers were relieved that the year had seemed relatively settled, though the pessimism remained due to the lack of the rain. Luckily, this turned out to be unfounded: the yield surpassed everyone’s expectations. It was, ironically, the good yield that helped prevent the whites from becoming “flabby.” Great acidity remains on these whites, giving the vintage a “brighter” feel than hot vintages prior. Alcohol may be a touch higher, though it is balanced with the structure. Riper fruit, of course, with zippy mineral notes and lingering complexity in the finish. Finally!—a vintage that produced a decent yield, and (luckily, for the rest of us) great quality, too.
AUXEY-DURESSES WHITE 'PATIENCE 11' 2019
Great acidity remains on these whites, giving the vintage a “brighter” feel than hot vintages prior. Alcohol may be a touch higher, though it is balanced with the structure. Riper fruit, of course, with zippy mineral notes and lingering complexity in the finish.